The Day Paris Stole My Heart: March 16

I felt it coming. Sure, my first days in Paris were tumultuous, what with the hospital visits and all, but then there was this day with its flowers heralding Spring and a friend heralding happiness. So, as I said, I felt the affection coming. 

March 16 was the first day I did not have to make an early-morning trek to the hospital. Instead, I left my beanie and my scarf behind (a novelty in and of itself) and headed to the Île de la Cité via the Île Saint-Louis. 

Wandering around the Île Saint-Louis, I suddenly felt my breath catch in my throat. Staring me in the face was a sign for Berthillon, the fabled deity of ice cream. For a split second the devil on my shoulder told me to keep walking, reminding me that I’d just had breakfast. Luckily, the angel on my clavicle popped up to inform me that it would be pure stupidity to bypass a taste experience that famous bloggers and local friends alike have raved about. 

I almost went for the chestnut flavour… almost. I knew in my heart of hearts, though, that I had to get the Caramel Beurre Sale, for it’s been called Berthillon’s best flavour. 

Come to mama.

Oh. My. Heavens. I’ve mentioned a few experiences with salted butter caramel on this blog, but this ice cream blew everything else out of the water. The intensity, the depth, the buttery-roastedness of the flavour was exquisite. Super smooth, rich, and creamy, I savoured (I feel like the word should be “sweeted”) this in little bites, standing on a bridge overlooking the water with the warmth of the sun beating down on my neck. The warmth was almost as wonderful as the ice cream. 

You know that feeling when you’re blissfully content, when happiness seems to be filling you up inside, and when you want to hug everyone around you and have the moment last forever, or at least a week? That’s what I felt like at this moment, with cute dogs being walked past me and the Notre Dame in the distance. At this moment, I realised that I loved Paris, deeply. 

Johanna of Green Gourmet Giraffe, a wonderful Australian blog, had graciously taken the time to email me her suggestions for Paris. Having already visited Père Lachaise, I followed more of her advice and made my way to the Notre Dame Cathedral. After climbing its 387 steps, I took the requisite forty-seven hundred photos of Paris-from-above, complete with gargoyles. 

Notre Dame Gargoyles

Nary a hunchback to be seen, though.

But for all the panoramic shots, this was and is my favourite photo from the top of Notre Dame: 

Maybe it was my happy state of mind, but seeing this girl be delighted by birds just seemed wonderful to me. Also, this photo was taken with my camera zoomed in as much as possible. Without the zoom, she was a tiny speck of red in a crowd of black people-specks.

After climbing back down the 387 steps, I looked inside the Cathedral then made my way to another of Johanna’s suggested spots (which, being a book lover, I’d already decided was a must-visit): Shakespeare and Co. 

This is Paris’ best English-language bookstore, and turned out to be utterly in tune with my state of mind. For not only did I find, immediately upon entering, a book of Pablo Neruda poetry, but flicking through it I came to a poem called “First Travellings” and then, on the very next page, I kid you not

Did I mention... Paris, je t'aime?

And then these

I should also have checked to see if they had Under Milk Wood, by Dylan Thomas... Love that play.

And then upstairs, where you can (and I did) sit and read to your heart’s content, there was a gorgeous old piano. This paved the way for some lovely chatting with two American girls over the music of Amélie and Clair de Lune… and for Le Orteil Mauvais to make a blog appearance.

Had someone passed me my Avenue Q sheet music and a block of chocolate, I very likely would have stayed at Shakespeare and Co for days.

Of course, no day of happiness could exist without including more delicious eats than just ice cream, but we’ll save those for another time. For now, I’ll simply say Paris – I can’t wait to see you again.

A Wayfaring Chocolate Guided Tour of the Louvre

We’ve had stories, we’ve had chocolate, we’ve had a first attempt at macaron reviewing… you know what that means, right? It’s time for an art post. Welcome, my friends, to the Louvre…

Saint Sebastien by Pietro Vannucci

I can’t help feeling that if I’d been shot with several arrows, my face would express something a little more intense than “Oh, look at the sky… what shall I have for lunch today? Doo-de-doo…” (“Saint Sébastien” by Pietro Vannucci dit Pérugin)

Les Noces de Cana, by Paolo Veronese

I’m posting this because I like the way you almost can’t tell where the real people end and the painting begins. (“Les Noces de Cana” by Paolo Veronese.)

La Mort de Cleopatre, by Giovanni Pietro Rizzoli

Each to their own, I guess? (“La Mort de Cléopâtre” by Giovanni Pietro Rizzoli dit Giampetrino)

You know what sustains a girl through many hours at the Louvre? Delicious handmade truffles by Camille. This was the “gingembre” truffle. I was a little scared going into it as I don’t like crystallised ginger, but hurrah! This was a smooth and luscious chocolate ganache with just a hint of ginger heat coming in at the end. Score!

La Reine Marie-Anne d'Autriche, by Diego Velazquez

Girl, I feel your pain and crankiness. I too once had the misfortune of getting a haircut that made me look like Patty and Selma. Did you also have a brother who teased you mercilessly about it? (“La Reine Marie-Anne d’Autriche” by Diego Velazquez)

Femme prenant des fruits, by Abraham Brueghel.

A woman after my own heart – halfway through a pomegranate and going for the figs. Chuck in some raspberries and a fuyu persimmon and you’ve got all my favourite fruits right there. (“Femme Prenant des Fruits” by Abraham Brueghel)

Tete de cheval blanc by THeodore Gericault

I seem to be taking lots of photos of horse statues and paintings. Parents, it’s my birthday in a few months. I WANT A PONY. (“Tête de Cheval Blanc” by Théodore Gericault.)

The Turkish Bath by Ingres

This is for Shellie and Fiona, because they got so excited about David’s, erm, bits… (“The Turkish Bath”, by Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres)

And a coconut truffle, which had honest-to-goodness the silkiest ganache I’ve ever come across. Camille, you’re a magician. But even this couldn’t compare to your praline truffle wonders, particularly the ones that had nothing but crispy-crackly-nutty goodness inside. Anyone in the Paris vicinity – get thee to Camille’s place of work and go crazy!

(Also, I should mention that it’s forbidden to eat in the Louvre. So yes, I was the girl darting into the nooks and crannies between rooms to sneak illegal truffles. That’s not addict behaviour, is it?)

My Dirty Little Macaron Secret, Part One

A few days ago in blog-time, or a few weeks ago in real time, I snickered at the macarons I saw in a Parisian McDonalds.

I think, however, I snickered too soon. See, my own macaron-lovin’ in Paris was perhaps not as sophisticated as it could have been. I might even have been tempted to obfuscate (love that word) the reality of my macaron purchases, but for the fact that the incredibly-creative Lorraine admitted to enjoying a supermarket banoffee tart.

So I’m going to be honest with you all, and share my dirty little macaron secrets.

1. In two weeks in Paris, I ate 66 macarons.

(Oh dear heavens, I didn’t realise that until I counted, just then. Excuse me for a minute while I giggle hysterically.)

2. Every single one of these came from the freezer aisle of food stores – some from Monoprix, some from the fancy-schmancy frozen mecca Picard.

3. The macarons were highly enjoyable, and conformed in texture and taste to all the ravings about macarons I’ve read on the blogosphere.

(And, might I add, buying macarons thusly was cheaper than purchasing 66 of the blighters from patisseries.)

Tonight, I bring you the first half of my macaron thoughts.

Monoprix Macarons

Monoprix Gourmet Macarons
Look! It says “Monoprix Gourmet”. Gourmet! I have been validated.

1. Caramel

My very first experience with macarons, and what an experience it was. I expected the shells to be crispy, like meringues, but they were precisely the opposite. Delicate and soft, these dissolved in my mouth to showcase the silky caramel filling, which similarly dissipated into a gentle puff of sweetness.

Monoprix Caramel Macarons

Do you hear the pitter-patter of little feet?

After my success with the (relatively) little box of six caramel macarons, I moved onto the first box of assorted flavours…

2. Caramel au Beurre Salé

While not exactly noticeably salty, this caramel with salted butter macaron was exactly noticeably better than the plain caramel flavour. The flavour was just that little bit deeper, caramellier – a bit like a Werthers Original in taste, but with an almond component. In addition, the filling was more solid. Whereas the plain caramel’s filling became like liquid in the mouth, this was more like buttercream.

Monoprix Caramel au Beurre Sale Macaron

Wait, that doesn't look like buttercream. It looks like gooey caramel goo. In the good goo way.

3. Mangue-Passion

As the cleverest amongst you can surely guess, the next was mango and passionfruit. In the spirit of keeping this post not too insufferably long, I’ll say that I didn’t enjoy this very much. It tasted like tropical juice, which I’ve never been a fan of. (Tomato juice? Yes.)

Monoprix Mangue-Passion Macaron

Pac-Man, anyone?

4. Fruits Rouge

At first, this “red fruits” flavour just tasted sweet. This turned out to be because the filling is a tiny drop of jam in the centre, so it wasn’t until I hit this little jam drop that I realised this tasted like jam drop cookies. You know, the butter cookies where you make a little thumbprint/indent in the middle and put in a tiny bit of jam? And bake it? Thereby creating jam drop cookies? I don’t much care for those cookies, but the trip down memory lane was nice. Food dissection photo ahead!

Monoprix Macarons

Please excuse the colour/lighting. The Chill-Out Room in my Paris hostel had awful lighting.

5. Vanille

This was the simplest of the flavours so far and, surprisingly, one of my favourites. There were speckles of vanilla bean seeds in the buttercream filling, which is always good, and the shell was a little bit more dense and nutty in flavour than any of the others. The whole thing reminded me a little of nougat.

Monoprix Macaron

Gah! Stupid lighting! This was far more white and pretty in reality, I promise.

Gosh, this is taking longer than I thought! Just as well I opted out of covering the Picard macarons in this post too… Now, the second assorted flavour box. Also known as my favourite Monoprix box, the box I bought twice.

6. Goût Pistache

The first thing of note about each of the following macarons is that the biscuit shells were a little bit chewier than the previous ones. I don’t know if this is technically good or not, but I liked the bit of resistance in the bite.  The pistachio macarons were lovely in a rounded, buttery, nutty and rich way, but suffered from the fate of not having a strong pistachio flavour. Still, I liked them for their subtle nuttiness.

Monoprix Macarons

My mountain of macarons, on a classy black plastic base.

7. Framboise

Unlike the previous Fruits Rouge flavour (which had raspberry, blackcurrant, and blueberry, apparently), this tasted definitively of raspberry. Win! There was also more filling, and this filling was softer and more luxurious than the stingy jam drop disc, and the biscuit shells had a nice almond taste.

Monoprix Macarons

And see? Real seeds in the filling!

8. Chocolat

I’ve mentioned my non-love of chocolate treats that aren’t a block of chocolate, so it might interest you to know these constituted a metaphorical slap in the face. I liked them. They weren’t amazingly chocolatey, but the filling was a firm ganache, and on the whole they tasted pleasantly of the brownies I used to make so often that I knew the recipe by heart. In fact, eating these brought to mind the 20x20cm square cake tin that is synonymous with those brownies in my head.

Monoprix Macarons

Mmm, chewy macaron-brownie, you are the mutt of the treat world that I would like to adopt.

9. Cappuccino

Last but not least, the cappuccino macaron. When I first bit into this, I was disappointed in the lack of coffee flavour, but once I realised it was focused in the rich, silky, buttercream filling, I was a happy girl. I came to love the subtle blend of sweet/coffee/almond/creamy/biscuit, and it provided a nice contrast to the other flavours in the box.

Monoprix Macarons

End scene.

Holy smokes, I started this as a quick post to write and a short post to read, but it’s turned into a monster of a macaron post. Whoops! Free passes given to anyone who didn’t make it through the whole post… I know detailed macaron reviewing is not everyone’s cuppa…

This Gelato and David: 1, That Museum and Chocolate: 0

I’m currently torn between the fear of forgetting what happens in my days (this leads me to want to post travel stories constantly) and the fear of losing all my readers when I get back to normal non-travelling life in Canberra (this leads me to want to hoard my travel stories). Today, I seem to have been led to do both, so here’s a bit about my day and a chocolate!

Part A: Overview of Florence, Day 2

Waking up to a beautiful sunny day in Florence, I decided to make my way over to see an equally beautiful man. No, not Ronaldo. I’m talking about this fellow:

Actually, not quite. This is the copy of David at the entrance to the Palazzo Vecchio, where the original originally stood. After it's origination.

On the way to the Galleria dell’Accademia, though, I came across the Museo di San Marco. Why not? I thought to myself. Housed in an old Dominican monastery from the 15th century, the San Marco Museum is… well, um… not really very good. However, caveat - if you like endless paintings of Jesus on the Cross, go for it. Personally, I like my art with a dose of human warmth and emotion, not with blood spurting from chest wounds and endless repetition.

Seeing as it was a nice day, though, and I’d paid my entry fee, I enjoyed a pleasant hour reading my Sookie Stackhouse book in the museum’s courtyard.

(There is something a bit awkward about reading a sex scene in an old monastery, particularly when also surrounded by an Italian tour group of women in their 60s and 70s.)

Museo di San Marco. At least it looked nice.

After this, I was quite lucky and only had to wait half an hour in line to see the David. And you know what? Amazing. I was expecting seeing him to be like seeing the Mona Lisa – something I did because everyone told me to, therefore something I went into poutingly and something that, as expected, I didn’t care for.

But Michelangelo’s David is stunning, and huge, and perfect, and rather yummy.

So was this:

Gelato, Gelateria Carabe

Winner winner! Sorry that this photo lacks depth, or the ability to showcase depth, but I wanted you to be able to see the flecks in the gelato on the right.

After some dedicated google-researching this morning, I have a hefty list of recommended gelaterias to visit. One such was Carabe, a small gelateria just down the road from (the real) David… really, what was I supposed to do?

This whooped the Festival del Gelato gelato’s tookus.

I got pistachio (on the left), which was buttery, dense, and rich, with real pistachio flavour (none of this almond extract business) and no fluoro-green food colouring. The one on the right, though, was a revelation. I’m not usually big on fruit-flavoured things, but this pear gelato tasted like pure ground-up pears, their essence, distilled. So true, so sweet, so refreshing. Hold me back, I feel there’s almost an haiku there. Must resist urge.

In a fight to the death with the following chocolate, I think the pear gelato would win.

Part B: Sainsbury’s Sao Tome Dark Chocolate

Sainsbury's Sao Tome Dark Chocolate

"Sao Tome... really dark... intense flavour". We'll see about that.

Gosh, it feels like an age since I’ve done a straight-up chocolate review. And it has been an age since I had this; it was eaten way back in Liverpool, in early February.

Sainsbury’s is a supermarket chain in England, and so I wasn’t sure what to expect from its own-brand chocolate. Unfortunately, while it was quite good for what it was, it fell into the same trap as the San Marco Museum. Just not my thing.

The aroma was very fruity, with strong raisin notes. The flavour was similarly very strong on fruit, but in the tangy, almost-sour red berry fruit way that I don’t love. In fact, this tasted a lot like red wine to me, and I just can’t do shiraz, or merlot, or what have you. (Rose is good. Oh fiddlesticks, I have Prosecco in the fridge! Silly forgetful head.)

Sainsbury's Sao Tome Dark Chocolate.

Well done, camera. You do work better when you have light to work with, don't you?

I also got burnt acidic coffee, hay, and goats cheese from this, but all in an unpleasant-tempered-by-red-wine way. At the same time, I feel bad being so disparaging, because I do feel that someone who likes red/tangy chocolate would like this.

Just, you know, not me. Too fruity. For chocolate, that is. I prefer my fruitiness to remain in my gelato.

Buona Notte!

Tiny Bunks, Gelato, and Italian Men: Arrival in Florence, March 26

So, I’m really terrible at chronology. I’m going to try to date my Paris posts, as I did the last, so that this blog makes some sort of sense as to where I am and have been (and when). I absolutely intend to keep blogging about Paris, but I’m posting this tonight because it’s all very fresh in my mind…

I was incredibly anxious yesterday about making my overnight train from Paris to Florence. This was partly because the forecast was for rain, partly because I wanted to stop by a supermarket on the way to the station, and partly because I can be a bit ridiculous when I’m not in control of situations.

To deal with this anxiety, I left my hostel at 3:30pm (first off, it was sunny), went to the supermarket, easily made my metro change at Pyramides, and arrived at the Paris Bercy train station at 4:40pm.

My train left at 6:52pm. Yep, I was a bit of a nincompoop. Luckily, one of my purchases at the supermarket had been the chocolate version of my beloved chestnut fondant, and at the hostel I chanced upon the exact Sookie Stackhouse book I’m up to reading (I make no apologies for this choice. One needs fun reads when travelling), so the two hours passed without too much trouble.

Foot foot foot. Chocolate chocolate chocolate. I know which I prefer.

My sleeper cabin consisted of very little space and six bunkbeds, three on each wall, but thankfully there were only four of us in the itty-bitty living space. I ended up bursting into not-well-hidden giggles several times during the evening/night, so much so that I once wondered if my companions thought I was sobbing to myself in bed.

See, it was just so strange. My three roomies (bunkies?) were middle-aged Italian men who spoke no English, and half the time I had no idea what was going on. Also, one of these men did nothing, all night. He had no books, no music, no nothing. He just sat there. Often staring at me and my computer/book/food/iPod. What can I say – I come prepared.

Also, I know that at one point they were laughing at the amount of chocolate I was eating (there was pointing and gesturing involved), but I do wonder what they made of the fact that, after all my chocolate, I pulled out a bag of raw broccoli, then a packet of curry-flavoured tofu patties, then a packet of pre-cooked lentils.

I bet they were just jealous.

Still, the 13 hours passed eventually, and what could I expect upon my arrival but an immediate adventure in Florence?

My hostel was quite tricky to find and, once found, turned out not to be my hostel anymore. I’d been switched to another about ten minutes further away. The hostel fellow said he’d walk me there, and after a bit of awkwardness we latched onto the universal language of food and started talking gelato. (It’s lovely how often food unites people – and equally as bizarre, to me, to meet people bored by the topic.)

I absolutely believe it was this food-chatting that led Ronaldo, from the Dominican Republic, who loves Nutella and Mango gelato, to treat me to a cappuccino at a little Italian bar. He also wanted to buy me a pastry, but I felt a bit guilty, so opted for a kinder chocolate. (Amber, you’ll be excited about more than that in this post, I promise you).

Ronaldo pointed out that the foam was in the shape of a heart. I had actually been thinking hoof.

This was, without a doubt, the smoothest, nuttiest, creamiest cappuccino I’ve ever had. It also, combined with my tiredness and normal-decaf-ness, made me feel quite jittery and sick for a few hours. But it was goooood.

Ronaldo then told me to meet him at noon for gelato, and while at first I wasn’t sure, I was told by the girl at the second hostel that he’s just a friendly guy with a girlfriend, so I went for it.

I mean, you can’t pass up inside-knowledge about a good gelato joint, can you?

My bad; my joy overwhelmed the camera and made everything around me glow and be blurry.

In this photo, the gelato looks rather small, but I assure you it was not. I got three flavours (out of dozens), and it was packed in there – almost too much for me. Almost.

Do ya wanna know what I got? Do ya, punk?

Well, it was from Festival Del Gelato, so it was a festival in my mouth. I got Mora (blackberry), Maron Glace (chestnut), and Yoghurt Nutella. I also tried Mango, Nocciola (hazelnut), and what I think was Amaretto-Cherry, because Ronaldo just kinda shoved his cone at me. (His ice-cream cone, people. Sheesh.)

If I’m absolutely honest, the blackberry and chestnut gelatos were rather disappointing. But the yoghurt nutella was fantabulous, and you better believe I’ll be scouting out other gelaterias and flavours over the coming week.

Try as you might to tempt me with your flavours, Festival Del Gelato - I'm a woman on a mission, and this woman's mission is to track down Grom.

There was one other thing that confused me, though. For a man with a supposed girlfriend, Ronaldo was quite into touching my back, and held onto my camera twice after taking photos of me to discuss how beautiful he thought my smile was.

So when he asked me to dinner tomorrow night, I was a bit ambiguous in my response.

You know what this means, though? Amber was right. Apparently, Florence is all about the art, churches, gelato, and, erm, friendly men…

P.S. I promise I’ll do a short and/or photo-centric post tomorrow. I already fear I’m scaring people away with all these lengthy posts.